#rabbit manure nutrients

[farmerstrend]

Understanding NPK Analysis in Different Types of Manure: A Guide for Farmers

Manure is one of the most cost-effective and environmentally friendly fertilizers available to farmers. However, not all manure is created equal. Understanding the nutrient composition—commonly expressed as NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium)—is crucial for optimizing crop yields and soil health. Here’s a detailed breakdown of the NPK analysis for common types of manure, along with…

[wuxiaphoenix]

Worldbuilding: Cultivating Green

Aquarium snails like lettuce. They really, really like lettuce. Especially Romaine. Apparently it tends to have more calcium than other lettuces, which not only helps snails build good shells but is one reason it’s a preferred green to feed rehabilitating manatees. The fact that it floats, making it easy to grab leaves off the surface, doesn’t hurt a bit.

Greens are good for you. They are also, in some circumstances, absolutely deadly. A few things you might consider before you feed your characters a salad include plant breeding, agricultural tech, and water handling.

First, how advanced is your plant breeding? How cultivated are your varieties? Have they been bred to reduce toxicity?

Yes, toxicity. Plants evolved to be resistant to being eaten, just like animals. Only since they can’t run away, they rely on other strategies. Most plants that we can technically eat, for example grass, aren’t very nutritious. Grazing herbivores definitely chew grass, but they get most of their nutrients from digesting the microbes in their guts that can actually break down the cellulose. Like termites. Grazing herbivores also tend to browse on the tender tips of bushes and trees when they can, for more protein.

Though this has its drawbacks. Plants that are nutritious tend to be very, very toxic. Clover? Very nutritious, good grazing for animals and the occasional human - but humans at least have to eat it fresh, and it has compounds known to be abortifacient in large quantities. Milkweed? You eat very specific parts, and change out some water, to avoid the toxins that make birds seriously sick if they target a Monarch butterfly. Apple leaves and branches? Go ahead and cut fresh bits for your horse or rabbit, but take the bits away before they can wilt because cyanide. Potatoes and tomatoes? Nightshades, they can really mess you up. Only the fruit of the tomato is edible; and if you find a wild potato, or even just an unknown cross - I’m begging you, do not eat the tubers unless someone’s able to test them in a lab first. Farmers in the Andes worked for thousands of years to get our table varieties, and every seed from a cross is still a roll of the dice. Not to mention some actively if slightly-less-toxic potatoes are still grown because they’re tough enough to survive very bad conditions.

(You eat them after they’ve been freeze-dried, and you eat them with clay. Do not skip the clay. It absorbs the toxins.)

There are a very few plants that are both nutritious and nontoxic, but they’re rare. Wild cabbage, ancestor to our modern brassicas like broccoli, radish, cabbages, etc., naturally grows on limestone cliffs with basic soils high in salt and lime, where very few other things like the environment. Though extreme environments cannot be counted on to produce edible plants. Look at some of the nasty compounds that are in cactus pulp. Preferably before you try to drink it.

Second, how advanced is the local agricultural tech? What are they using for fertilizer? Organic fertilizer is often either marl (not found everywhere) or manure. Hopefully well-aged manure; hopefully not human manure. But any kind carries the risk of disease and parasites. There are ways to cut those risks; do the farmers know how?

Third, how advanced is the tech for obtaining clean water, and purifying water that might not be clean? Even the best, cleanest field might get targeted by passing birds; washing your greens before you eat them is good sense. Unless the water’s not reliable. In which case all your veggies might be stir-fry, not salad.

It’s possible all of this is just unimportant background in your story. But if your characters are in a foraging or other survival situation... these are bits to consider. They may be safest just hunting!

[bumblebeeappletree]

Jane tours an established food forest where nearly everything you see is good enough to eat.

Deep in the Yarra Valley about an hour Northeast of Melbourne, Jane visits a garden filled with over 300 plants from around the world. This dense one-acre food forest is purposed as an edible and medicinal forest. It is also a wedding venue and home to the initiator of the project, Louise Ward, who lives here with her husband. Louise says they are “mimicking the normal forest as a food system...things that you would find when you go into a forest. Some things you can eat and some things you can't, but they all have their purpose within the forest. That's what the edible forest is all about.”

Louise came across the idea while researching permaculture and saw the term edible forest. “I thought wow that would be amazing... it'll be like the garden of Eden. People can walk in and taste. I can just see it in front of me,” she says. The site began as a clear open paddock on clay soil, so to improve the soil she and her husband brought in manure of all kinds. Now, everywhere you look is covered in plants along structured pathways and the result is that “there's a lot of produce,” says Louise, “We’re always having to think what we do with it. Because we’ve got the business here, we use it in the menus as well.”

Horticulturalist Jamie Sweetman has looked after these plants for nearly four years and takes tour groups around the garden. Jamie says, “we've got about 330 plants in here and about 200 are edible. The other hundred just fit into the system, so they will be attracting beneficial bugs or nitrogen-fixing. Everything has to have an excuse to be in here.” Large areas of the garden are protected by a netted structure which keeps out deer, rabbits and cockatoos, while still allowing the smaller creatures in. Jamie says, “the little birds can come in, so we've got blue wrens in here... they come in and out of the fence line as they please. The bees and the dragon flies, all the good stuff.”

Some of the plants harvested for medicinal purposes include rosehips and elderberry which can be made into syrups. Peruvian gooseberries can be eaten fresh, but a favourite this time of year is the chokeberry. Jamie says despite the name, “no, you won't choke but they're quite astringent. In saying that they have more antioxidants in them than blueberries. Easier to grow, they make a great hedge, easy to harvest and all ripen at the same time... they are in the rose family, you can kind of tell by the leaf shape.”

A common method of repurposing green waste is to chop-and-drop. Jamie explains “you'll cut something down and drop it on the ground so that the nutrients can go back into the ground.” The version they’re using in the edible forest is a wire structure shaped into a cylinder in which the green waste is piled up. Jamie says, “we will pull that up soon, throw some mulch over the top, leave it for a while and it’s building soil on site.” They also have a wetland area where everything is edible, including the Australian native water fern, nardoo, and a range of other nitrogen fixing plants such as the Persian silk tree. Jamie explains that nitrogen-fixing plants “have nodules on their roots that turn nitrogen into forms that other plants find accessible, so they’re self-fertilising our garden for us.”

Amongst all these plants with purpose, Louise does have a special favourite, the gotu kola. Louise says, “it’s a medicinal one, so it's not the most beautiful looking one... it’s very very happy over here and it’s a great little groundcover, too.” Louise says, “gardening is one of the best things I've ever discovered. It's just wonderful. Getting your hands dirty is just one of the most wonderful things in the world. It's really good for you mentally. It's everything.”

[wolfalder]

Just as a heads up - when you buy fur from any sort of 'ranched' animal, that is (pretty much) always going to be from an animal that was deliberately farmed and killed for its fur. Cases of death by old age or illness are extremely rare when it comes to buying pelts or tails or other parts - when they do happen, the seller will always say it directly in the posted item's sale description or will state in their store description that all of their materials come from animals that were not killed specifically for their fur.

There are no furbearing animals that are ranched that are also consumed by humans except for rabbits, and they aren't used in food for other animals either (with very few exceptions, typically homesteaders feeding carcasses to pigs and using the pigs for their own personal consumption). Carcasses are composted with manure and used as fertilizer.

By the logic you’ve given here, you should have absolutely no issues with farmed animals (and I’m sure you probably own a few pieces from non-’natural’ death farmed animals as well), so long as they are treated well, given the appropriate care, are provided with enrichment, and are killed swiftly and humanely/without pain. There are many, many fur farms like this, and there are many people committed to sourcing their farmed furs from these places - including all of the sellers you added to your response to my original ask. I say all of this because from your original post, you would be saying that the places you yourself listed in your response are not ethical places to buy pelts from. These places do not specifically source their ranched items from animals that died of natural causes or illness, and therefore are selling pelts and parts from animals that were in fact farmed and killed specifically for their fur. As I said, carcasses are composted at most fur farms, so there still is no waste, but carcasses are not being used for food (with the one exception I mentioned, as well as fat from mink being used to create mink oil which can be used to soften/condition leather).

There absolutely are unethical fur farms where animals are treated horribly and where the carcasses are left to rot or sent to landfills. These farms are in fact where almost all tails and fur items from Amazon come from, and you are absolutely right to say that people shouldn’t buy from Amazon. These fur farms are in places where animal protection laws are in fact non-existent, such as China. But there are plenty of other fur farms that absolutely would fit your description of ethical fur. I want to make absolutely sure that you are aware that if you own pieces from ranched animals - unless the listing specifically stated that it was natural death or illness - those pieces do in fact come from animals that were killed specifically for their fur. Also I wanna make it super clear that I’m not like. Mad or anything, I’m just trying to be educational and make sure that you understand where your original post went wrong!

~Signed, a fellow therian with a major special interest in fur/taxidermy/vulture culture who has friends in the industry and who has been part of the industry '^^

I always appreciate correction. I did not mean to imply that I am against fur farms in my original post. I have no issue with the killing of animals if their is no waste which I’m aware that with some fur farms the carcasses are used. I tried to mention that in my later reply to someone that some mink farms have a great way to recycle the “leftovers”. I realize it sounded like I wasn’t aware of these things but I just mean to say I’m against tails sold on Amazon from fur farms in china or other countries with less strict regulation.

“Farmed minks manure, soiled straw bedding and carcasses are composted to produce organic fertilizers, to enrich the soil and produce more food, completing the agricultural nutrient cycle. Biofuels made from mink remains now power buses in Aarhus, Denmark, the world’s largest producer of farmed mink. Similar projects are being tested in North America.” Here’s a part of my original reply where I talk a bit about fur farms.

Sorry again that my original post seems as though I’m totally against fur farms. And thank you again for further explanation! I will always take the chance to learn and to spread helpful information to others so I really appreciate you checking me on what I was saying being someone who knows a lot about these topics!

I also do own 3 pelts that were farmed ethically.

[tameblog]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[ramestoryworld]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[alexha2210]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[angusstory]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[tumibaba]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[romaleen]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[monaleen101]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iamownerofme]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[shelyold]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[iammeandmy]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

[januishstory]

Popular summers flower for beds and borders as well as city, cottage, and courtyard gardens, cheery Shasta daisies are valued for the masses of snow white flowers with bright, sunshine yellow center discs. They make delightful container plants too, adding their long flowering season to a variety of settings such as balconies, decks, and patios, or scattered throughout the landscape. We link to vendors to help you find relevant products. If you buy from one of our links, we may earn a commission. Blooming all summer, the adorable ray-like flowers attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies and also draw in beneficial predator insects like ladybugs and lacewings. Hardy and vigorous, these clumping perennials are also easy to grow and herbivores like deer and rabbits typically don’t bother them. In our guide to growing Shasta daisies, we cover how to cultivate these perennials in the landscape. Is your container garden in need of some long-lasting, radiant blooms this summer? Then let’s shine a light on how to grow Shasta daisies in containers. Here’s a quick look at what’s ahead: Shasta Daisy Basics Shasta daisies prefer a full sun location but are tolerant of a little light shade. They need soil that’s rich in organic matter and well-draining, particularly in winter, and with a slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5 to 7.0. Although they can tolerate short bouts of drought once established, they do better with regular waterings, keeping the soil evenly moist. Hardy in Zones 4 to 9, you should aim to plant out after all danger of frost has passed. Shastas can be propagated by seed or division, but bear in mind the seed collected from hybrid plants may not grow true to the parent plant. Container Choices When choosing containers, opt for vessels large enough to accommodate the spreading roots, as these plants form clumps. Pots with a minimum depth and diameter of 12 inches is a good starting size. A variety of container materials are suitable, including ceramic, fiberglass, fiberstone, hypertufa, metal, terra cotta, and wood. Since you can leave the plants outdoors during the winter in many regions, you’ll want to avoid container materials that are easily damaged by cold weather, such as ceramic and terra cotta. Planters must have drainage holes in the bottom to prevent the soil from becoming waterlogged – wet conditions can easily lead to crown collapse and root rot. I like to line the bottom of my containers with a two-inch layer of chunky porous materials such as broken pottery, pebbles, or shells before adding soil. This helps to expedite drainage and prevent soggy soil at the deeper levels. If you use pebbles, place them carefully so they don’t accidentally plug the drainage holes. A layer of drainage material isn’t mandatory, but I find it makes a noticeable difference to the vigor of many potted plants – particularly those that don’t like wet feet, like Shasta daisies. Place containers in a spot with full sun or morning sun with light afternoon shade. If your containers are going to be kept on a balcony, courtyard, deck, or patio, use a catchment saucer to collect any water overflow and avoid staining surfaces. To minimize staining even more, use pot toes to elevate containers and saucers away from surfaces such as bricks, decking, pavers, and tiles. Planting The ideal growing medium for Shasta daisies is soil that’s nutrient-rich with a loose, lofty composition and it must be well-draining. Photo by Lorna Kring. For best results, use good quality commercial potting soil and amend as follows: Start with two parts potting soil. Mix in a generous one part of organic compost, well-rotted manure, or worm castings. Mix in one part of grit to sharpen the drainage and improve water saturation, using materials such as landscape sand, pea gravel, perlite, or stone chips. Avoid using potting soils with a high peat moss content – peat is slow to absorb water and retains moisture in the soil. Wet soil can be problematic for the crown and roots. Also, don’t use garden soil. Its composition is too heavy for container plants and it tends to compact easily. Spring is the best time to pot up nursery plants, direct sow seeds, or start seeds indoors. Pot up Shasta daisies in spring when all danger of frost has passed. They can also be planted in fall, but spring planting gives the roots an entire growing season to become established before cold weather arrives. Fill your containers with enriched and amended soil and create an appropriately sized planting hole – twice as wide and a little deeper than the root ball. Mix in one or two tablespoons of bone meal to promote healthy root growth and enhance bud set. Remove plants from their nursery containers and carefully brush away the soil to loosen the roots. Set plants in place at the same depth as they were in their nursery containers – or with the crown or top of the root ball even with the soil line. Backfill with soil and gently firm in place. Water gently but thoroughly to settle in place, ensuring the entire root ball receives water. To help retain moisture you can add a two-inch layer of mulch using materials such as shredded bark, decorative pebbles, or straw. Make sure you leave a mulch-free space or collar around the base of the plant to avoid stem rot. Sowing Seeds To sow seeds directly, prepare your containers with amended soil as outlined above. Sow seeds in mid to late spring, or when the soil temperature stays above 60°F. They can also be sown throughout the summer until about two months before the first expected frost date. Scatter seeds a few inches apart then cover with an eighth of an inch of soil. Water gently and keep the soil lightly moist until after germination, which should happen in about 10 to 21 days. When the seedlings are two inches tall, thin them to two or three plants 10 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of your container. Once seedlings are six inches tall, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching and more flowers. Start Seeds Indoors To start plants earlier, sow them indoors about eight weeks before the last frost date. Prepare trays or small starter pots with a good quality starter soil mix that’s well-moistened but not soaking wet. Sprinkle the seeds over the soil then press lightly into the surface with your fingertips. Place the tray or pots in a warm location with bright, indirect light. When the seedlings are two to four inches tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, you can harden off and transplant into their permanent pots. Make sure all risk of frost has passed! Container Care Shastas are relatively low maintenance and moderate feeders – avoid overfertilizing which can produce lanky growth and floppy stems. You can use a slow-release, all-purpose fertilizer into the soil in spring. Use a formula with a slightly higher level of phosphorus than nitrogen, or a balanced NPK ratio such as 4-4-4. I use Burpee’s All Purpose Granular Plant Food which is versatile and suitable for many different flowering plants. Burpee All Purpose Granular Plant Food It’s available at Burpee in four-pound bags. Alternatively, use a balanced liquid or water-soluble fertilizer applied at half strength every four to six weeks during the growing season. Although these plants are quite durable and can withstand short bouts of dry conditions, for the most robust plants with ample flowers, aim to provide regular water in the absence of rain. Water deeply to saturate the entire rootball then allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between applications. In hot weather, container plants may need to be watered every few days to prevent them from drying out completely. Always water at the soil level to avoid damp foliage as this can promote fungal growth. Cultivars to Select Shasta daisies are available in a nice selection of single and double varieties in white or pale yellow. Here are some suggestions to get you started: Banana Cream ‘Banana Cream’ has large, single flowers that open a bright lemony-yellow and gradually fade to soft creamy white. Each bloom is about three to four inches wide with golden yellow centers. This cultivar has a long flowering period from early summer through early fall when deadheaded regularly. ‘Banana Cream’ The plants grow to about 18 to 24 inches tall with a compact, well-branched habit and strong stems. You can find ‘Banana Cream’ plants available at Burpee. Becky ‘Becky’ features single-petaled white flowers with golden yellow centers, measuring three to four inches across. This cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from early summer through early fall, with excellent heat tolerance. ‘Becky’ It grows a bit taller than many Shasta daisies at three to four feet with sturdy stems. ‘Becky’ was named Perennial Plant of the Year in 2003 by the Perennial Plant Association. You can find ‘Becky’ in #1 containers available at Nature Hills Nursery. Daisy May Amazing Daisies® Daisy May® (also known as ‘Daisy Duke’) sports large, single white flowers with bright yellow centers, typically measuring two to three inches across. This compact cultivar is notably long-flowering, blooming from late spring through early fall if you keep up with deadheading. Daisy May It grows to a modest height of 12 to 18 inches. The compact size and strong stems eliminate the need for staking, making it ideal for containers. You can find Daisy May® available in #1 containers at Nature Hills Nursery. Marshmallow With large, fully double white flowers and no visible yellow centers when fully open, ‘Marshmallow’ is gorgeous in containers. Each bloom measures approximately three to four inches in diameter on plants that reach heights of 18 to 24 inches. ‘Marshmallow’ This cultivar has a moderately long flowering period from early to late summer. You can find ‘Marshmallow’ in #1 containers from Nature Hills Nursery. Maintenance These easy-care plants don’t require a lot of attention, but it’s a good idea to regularly deadhead spent flowers to encourage more blooms. Shastas spread and clump readily, and benefit from being divided in spring or repotted into fresh soil every two or three years to avoid plants from becoming root bound. In colder climates, the plants die back after the first hard frost and enter dormancy in winter. Prepare them for winter by removing catchment saucers and adding a two- to four-inch layer of winter mulch. Use materials such as shredded bark, chopped leaves, or straw to prevent the roots from heaving in freeze/thaw cycles. For extra protection, move containers into a sheltered site. Locations such as against a fence or foundation wall, under eaves, or tucked into shrubbery are usually a degree or two warmer than out in the open. If your winters are very dry, water lightly every few weeks to prevent the soil drying out completely, provided the soil is frozen. Prune back dead stems in early spring, cutting them back to about two inches. Bright and Cheerful With their bright, cheerful flowers that bloom all summer long, Shasta daisies are a reliable and easy choice for showy container gardens! Pot up nursery plants in early spring or direct sow seeds once the air and soil temperatures warm up. Remember to pinch out the growing tips to promote bushy growth, then water regularly and fertilize lightly for an abundance of sparkling blooms from June right into September! Are you growing Shasta daisies in containers? Let us know in the comments section below. And for more information about growing Shasta daisies, check out these guides next: Photo by Lorna Kring © Ask the Experts, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. See our TOS for more details. Product photos via Burpee and Nature Hills Nursery. Uncredited photos: Shutterstock. !function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s) if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function()n.callMethod? n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments); if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0'; n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0; t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)(window, document,'script', ' fbq('init', '176410929431717'); fbq('track', 'PageView'); Source link

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